Italian Sub from L’Appetito
Item Purchased: Italian Sub from L’Appetito
Location Purchased: L’Appetito / 30 E. Huron / Chicago, IL
Price: $$5.75 + tax
Purchased on: 09/21/07
Review: L’Appetito claims to be the first authentic Italian Deli in downtown Chicago. I, on the other hand, don’t claim to be an expert in Italian foods or culture. I have, however, frequented quite a few Italian delis and sandwich shops since moving to Chicago. Among the best are Bari Foods or Fontano’s depending on my mood. L’Appetito isn’t even close to the top of my list, but that’s not to say it isn’t a decent lunch spot.
As I said, I don’t claim expertise, but I’ve grown accustomed to thinking of an Italian sandwich as one that possesses a certain crunch or crust… as in crusty bread. Not stale, but not quite American White Bread soft/fresh. There needs to be a satisfying crunch and crumble when I bite into an Italian sandwich of any kind. Is that an accurate expectation or just naive American delusion?
L’Appetito delivers just fine on the three kinds of meat (capicollo, salami and mortadella), provolone cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, olive oil and a damn tasty, mildly hot giardiniera. Where they don’t quite deliver is the bread. Soft. Sesame-laden. Completely crunchless!
The taste of this sandwich as a whole is good but not great. When I am finished eating, I’m not thinking, “where do they get that wonderful mortadella?” I’m thinking, “why aren’t there any crumbs or crust chunks on my paper wrapper with which to sop up all of that extra oil and giardiniera?”
This is not the desired Italian sandwich dénouement.
Still, L’Appetito’s sandwich is quite large and relatively inexpensive for a filling meal in Chicago’s Gold Coast neighborhood.
But, c’mon L’Appetito! Get some real bread! All you have to do is let the bread you use sit out for a few hours. It would fool most of us!
Rating: 2.75 / 5
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